It is difficult to meet someone who does not like strawberries. It is good and in its natural form, and with cream; it is used as a filling in the dumplings, prepare fragrant jam and delicious jams. Strawberries do not bear fruit for long, in order to feast on freshly grown soft berries, you have to wait for the next season.
Have you heard the term "rebuildable"? The origin of this name is of French origin, translated as “re-flowering”, and means that the plant is capable of repeated fruiting during the season. Remontant signs show some varieties of citrus and raspberry. And strawberries have a lot of remontant varieties, among them there are even bezeless varieties. If you can get a repeated harvest of berries for the season, then there are questions: remontant strawberries, what does this mean, what are the secrets of caring for these varieties, when and how to plant them, how to propagate, does the plant need intensive watering and dressings. In this article, you will learn how to properly care for repair bushes to get the most out of them.
The differences of the repair strawberry from the usual
Remontant varieties have common properties with ordinary strawberries: the bushes also hibernate under the snow, not shedding leaves, and its flower stalks suffer from the lightest and short frosts. Repair species require close attention: more frequent watering and fertilizing due to increased load on plants, and constant fruiting accelerates the aging of the bushes. All gardeners are known for the remarkable vitality of ordinary garden strawberries, remontant varieties have their own characteristics: they require more care and frequent replacement of the bushes, but they delight with berries until autumn.
Varieties of remontant strawberries
This culture is classified according to several characteristics. One of them is the formation of the kidneys. Some remontant varieties are able to form buds in tamper-neutral light bottoms, while others create buds only in long light bottoms (DSD). Ordinary strawberries plant buds with a short light day (KSD), and this is due to its difference from remontant varieties. Bags with remontant seeds labeled as unauthorized access control and DSD. When choosing, keep in mind that the yield is higher for remontant species with unauthorized access.
Remontant varieties are classified by the presence or absence of a mustache. Each type has advantages and disadvantages.
An unrivaled variety (alpine remontant strawberry) better resists diseases, less capricious to the place of cultivation, less often requires a transplant, bears fruit throughout the season without a break. The lack of whiskers allows you to get a stable harvest, reduces labor costs for the care of the bed and saves space. Alpine remontant strawberries are worse than usual and suffer from a lack of moisture and heat, so on hot days it should be sweetened. Wild strawberries can be propagated either by sowing seeds or by dividing the maternal shrub when an old, three or four year old plant has a rhizome dying, and it splits into several parts.
Baleen remontant varieties produce less whiskers than ordinary garden strawberries, and are good in that they start fructification in the planting year already, giving two harvests, the second of which is much more abundant. The berries are larger than those of wild-looking remontant varieties, but a bush depleted with an abundant crop may die at the end of the season.
Best of all remontant strawberry feels on light (loamy or sandy) soil neutral or slightly acidic. The site for the cultivation of remontant species should be located on a small elevation to eliminate the stagnation of moisture. Planting can be carried out both in autumn and spring, preparing the soil ahead of time: for spring planting in autumn, and for autumn spring.Important! Good predecessors: beans, carrots, parsley, beets, radishes and mustard. After cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes and cucumbers, you should not plant remontant varieties.
Advanced soil preparation
The rules for preparing the soil for planting remontant varieties are simple, but they are important for the subsequent harvest. Dig the ground with a pitchfork, select the rhizomes of weeds. Add humus, compost or mullein at the rate of 1 m organic bucket2 soil and fill with wood ash, five kg per square meter. About a month before planting bushes, for each m2 add a tablespoon of Kaliyfos or 40 g of superphosphate mixed with 10 g of potassium sulfate.
The day before planting, seed the soil to a depth of about 15 cm, prepare the wells. Their depth should be slightly greater than the height of the roots. At the bottom of the planting hole, make a small mound in order to evenly spread out the strawberry roots along it, pour it. In cloudy weather, or in the evening, carefully transfer the seedlings from the cups to the hole. You can revise the roots: cut and are too long (over 10 cm). Dip the seedling root system in a chimney of thick sour cream, prepared from soil and humus with the addition of stimulants to form roots, such as Appin, Kornevin or similar preparations.Tip! Spread the roots, avoiding wrinkles and kinks, sprinkle with earth, without digging in the socket, compact the ground near the roots to eliminate voids.
These rules are common for spring and autumn planting of seedlings.
Placement of seedlings on the ridge
Depending on the size of the bed set aside for planting remontant strawberries, there are two methods for the placement of bushes: private and carpet. In the first case, the distance between the seedlings is 20-25 cm, each row is located 70 cm from the previous one. The second method involves placing the bushes according to the 20x20 cm scheme. After disembarkation, repairing species do not need additional feeding.
One of the peculiarities of the remontant strawberry is fruiting in the first year, therefore, in warm regions, it is possible to plant seedlings in the spring, mulching straw, peat, or agrofibre. Mulching will reduce the amount of irrigation and soil loosening, as well as slow the growth of weed. In the middle zone, the spring soil is not sufficiently heated, so the fall planting of remontant varieties is becoming more and more popular. In the fall, planting dates are a month and a half, from late July to early September, depending on the region. If the berry was already grown on the site, then there is your planting material. The remontant strawberry planted in the fall will get stronger by the next season, and will give the first spring harvest.
How to prepare remontant strawberries for wintering
Young plants planted in the fall, before the onset of frost, have time to take root, to increase the leafy rosette. To help the bushes to get stronger, the first week after planting should be watered after two days in the morning with warm water under the root, not filling the leaves. From the second week, watering is reduced, but the soil should not dry out, make sure that it is loose and wet.
Remontant strawberry growing in the open ground is affected by pests. To destroy the insects preparing for wintering in the upper layers of the soil, gently, without damaging the roots, loosen the soil 6-8 cm inland and carry out tillage with Karbofos solution, at the rate of 3 tbsp. spoons per 10 liters of warm water, and cover with foil for three hours.
To combat pathogens, treat the soil with a 2% solution of Bordeaux mixture. Copper oxychloride can be used by dissolving one tablespoonful of the substance in ten liters of water.
If you are a supporter of ecological farming, then this composition prepared for 10 liters of water will help protect the remontant strawberry bushes from fungal diseases and specific pests:
- Wood ash - 2 tbsp. spoons;
- Highly refried vegetable oil - 3 tbsp. spoons;
- Vinegar 9% - 2 tbsp. spoons;
- Liquid soap - 2 glasses.
Mix all the ingredients well and work the ridge, wetting both the soil and the bushes themselves.
If the strawberry bushes planted in autumn have managed to build up a good leafy rosette, then it should not be cut off until the bushes endure a couple of light frosts. And when the antennae grows in height, they should be removed so that the plant does not spend strength on growing the whiskers, but strengthens the roots. Check the condition of the soil under the bushes: the roots should be covered with earth. If the roots of the strawberries are bare, sprinkle the soil on top of them.
If you spread the mulch around the bushes when they are planted, then by the winter an additional layer of cover will be needed to protect it from freezing. For underwinter mulch, take straw, dry foliage, peat, spruce, or sawdust and spread out a mulch layer about 5 cm thick. Cover remontant strawberries when establishing stable frosts, otherwise early covered bushes may rot.
Preparing for wintering adult bushes
The key to a good harvest next year will be the correct preparation of adult bushes of remontant varieties for winter. The plant worked all summer, producing berries, and greatly weakened. After harvesting, cut off all late flowers, they obviously will not have time to ripen, and the plant will take away the forces. By autumn, the strawberry repair bushes should be fed to ensure that the budding of the next season is successful. Fertilized bushes better winter and recover faster in spring. Autumn top dressing includes a potassium-phosphorus complex in liquid or dry form, but it is not necessary to use nitrogen fertilizers in the fall, so that the bush of the strawberry does not increase the excess green mass. For supporters of ecological farming can recommend composting.
More detailed information on autumn dressing of remontant varieties is given in the table:
Mullein and bird droppings
We take only fermented. Dilute 1 l of organics in 10 liters of water and draw. Before use, add 125 g of wood ash to the bucket
Dilute 1 liter in 8 l of water and infuse until thick sour cream
Mown grass or legume green manure stacked in the aisle
Pour into ridges and aisles, per 1 m² - 150 g;
Potassium and phosphorus
In dry form, potassium salt (20 g) and superphosphates (10 g). Scatter between plants, or use as a solution, water between the beds.
Mix 250 g of ash, 2 tablespoons of "Nitrofoski" and 20 g of potash fertilizer, diluted in 10 liters of water. Stir, pour a liter on a bush. Two days later, pulverize or peat chips.
Attention! Liquid feeding is made no later than the end of September, otherwise the plant will die when it is frost.
Care for overwintered bushes
In March, the beds, right over the snow cover, you can sprinkle nitrogen fertilizers. In April, the term comes strawberry feeding with mineral and organic fertilizers, they are made by mulching the soil. During the period of active growth, flowering and fruiting, observe the state of the plants, water them in time, loosen and feed them. Repair strawberries are affected by the same diseases as common varieties, and they have the same pests, so use the same methods as for common garden strawberries to identify the problem and fix it.
Reproduction of remontant varieties
The maximum productive period of remontant strawberry is three years. This is due to the high load on the shrub, which is depleted by continuous fruiting. If you plan to update the bushes, then you can safely use your planting material, rooting the antennae of the first order. Choose the most promising remontant strawberry bushes, and do not let them bear fruit a second time, i.e. tear off the stalks. Around the bushes, dig in plastic cups, point the antennae to them and pin it. After the formation of a young bush and its rooting, you can separate the young plant from the parent bush, and plant it in the ground, as described above. Agrassless varieties of remontant strawberries are propagated by dividing a bush or sowing seeds.
If you are not afraid of troubles, you can grow remontant strawberries from seeds, a wide selection of which can be found in any garden supermarket. If on your site grow remontant varieties that suit you in all respects, then use your own seed. To collect seeds from their bushes, you need to choose the largest and ripe berries. Put the berries in a bowl and set it on a sunlit window. After 4 days, soften the strawberries with your hands and soak them in water, changing it several times. Remove the pulp, and the seeds that have settled on the bottom can be used for further sowing.
Sowing and growing seedlings
Sowing seeds for seedlings is carried out in February and early March. Sowing soil should be loose, disinfected, have a moisture content of at least 70%. Sprinkle the seeds on the surface, you can sprinkle the top with a thin layer of sand and moisten it with a spray bottle, not allowing the soil to dry. To reduce evaporation, the seed box should be covered with glass. Sprouting spend in a cool shaded place. As soon as the seeds of the remontant strawberry spill, the glass can be removed and the seedlings transferred to a lighted place. Before planting seedlings, it should be hardened in the usual way. The process of spring planting repairing bushes is similar to the autumn disembarkation.
How to choose the right grade
The reproduction processes of strawberry strawberry, its planting, and winter care, we closely examined and made sure that the agricultural machinery of ordinary garden strawberries and strawberry strawberries are similar. The differences are in shorter fruiting and more frequent watering, dressing and loosening of remontant varieties.Comment! For a bountiful second harvest, the first fruiting of remontant strawberries should be limited by cutting off part of the peduncle.
By planting remontant strawberries, you will provide yourself with a tasty berry at the end of summer, and there will not be so many fruits in spring. To eat plenty of strawberries and in the beginning of summer, plant its usual varieties. Combining repair and regular varieties with different periods of fruiting on one site, you will get enough berries for fresh consumption and for preservation for the winter.
Domestic and foreign breeders have created a huge number of strawberry varieties for a short, neutral and long day. A short day strawberry is a common garden strawberry, and two other varieties are remontant species. It is necessary to recommend a particular variety in each specific situation, there are no general rules. Each gardener has his own conditions: the climatic zone of residence, the location of the site, and everyone has his own taste preferences. Among the variety of remontant varieties, each person will be able to choose the most suitable option for him.